16 January 2011

Ice Climbing Road Trip - Day 2

Bob and I had discussed an early wake up the night before about an hour or more before the showdown in our hostel room. He had wanted to wake up at 0600. I was hoping for a little bit later wake up call. Despite my subtle protests we decided on a 0600 wake up. To my surprise I awoke around 0700 still plenty tired and sore from the day before. We quickly packed and headed to a local diner in New Paltz for breakfast. With New Paltz being a quick jaunt off of I-87, we were quickly on the road heading for the Catskills Mountains. Our destination which we had discussed over breakfast was to be Stoney Clove located near Phoenicia, NY off of NY 214. Although a very quick drive, once we got off of the interstate, the drive up 28 and onto 214 became quite scenic. NY Rt 28 skirts the western border of Catskills Park which, much like the rest of the area at this time of year, was speckled yet covered in some spots with snow. Ice flows of all shapes and sizes lined several parts of the road:


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




When we drove through Phoenicia and turned on to Rt 214 we could notice a large cloud dumping snow on the exact area on which we were to be climbing. I'm not sure how Bob was feeling but I was ecstatic about the enjoyable misery of postholing through powder on the side of a mountain to climb some ice.


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




The drive from New Paltz to Notch Lake where we were to park took about an hour. We were hiking well before 0900. Despite it snowing and howling, once in the tree line it wasn't bad at all. Albeit steep, the hike was relatively easy. There wasn't as much snow as we had though on the hill side and there was already a trail blazed by various other parties that had visited the ice over the course of the winter.


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




Still hurting from the day before I passed the reins to Bob who led the first climbs of the day. The ice was rock solid and full of pockets thanks to a solid season of climbing. The sound of Bob's and my tools sinking in the ice was quickly absorbed by the falling snow. What most people don't know about snow is that the normally hollow structure of snow flakes is what makes snow falling so peaceful to us. Each individual flake does its part to absorb all the white noise we don't usually notice and take for granted. When said noise is not there, we're left with the peace and tranquility that snowfall and snowy landscapes usually bring with them. After a few hours of climbing, the skies attempted to clear and did so succesfully a few times.


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




I followed Bob for most of the day. My arm was screaming but I didn't let it stop me from climbing. The ice had been used so much over the winter that I spent most of my time hooking versus actually swinging my tools. There were several climbing areas at the top of the particular mountain we had hiked. We started off at an area called Sun Wall which proved to be a very easy WI2/3 in rating. We moved up the valley to an area called The Playground which ended up being a little bit more difficult than Sun Wall. We kept moving our way across the slope and up the valley until we started to get tired and the skies darkened again. The climbs had two things in common that worked against us the entire day: 1) topping out of the climbs required negotiating almost 5 feet of muddy grass and tree roots. Every climb, which we later found out this to be notorious of Catskills ice climbs, the ice ended just short of the top which led to very interesting finishes of the climbs. 2) Each sections of ice were separated by a deceivingly long and almost alpine traverse through thigh-deep snow. Enter the postholing. A couple times we thought about belaying each other in between the climbs only to sack up and pray we didn't fall in the end. The mountain side was even steeper in between the climbs and being 800 feet above the base made for a long glissade (slide) through a bunch of trees that didn't look at all fun to hit.

The last climb of the day ended up being a two pitch climb due to an incredibly steep hike (70 degrees!) up a snowy/ice slope to another mini-ampitheatre of ice Bob and I decided to forgo climbing. It was nearly 4 PM, it was getting late, and Bob had a Jets game to watch shortly. We decided to rap off a tree back to the base of the climb in order to start down climbing back to 214.


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




After an hour and a half of scraping my crampons on shitty ice and rock or down climbing small sections of vertical ice, we finally made it down to 214 about 3/4 of a mile up the valley from Bob's car. Tired and sore, we packed up and headed back to Phoenicia to get dinner and watch the game. We left by 2000 and drove back to New Paltz where we spent the rest of the evening hanging our rope, outerwear, and climbing gear in order to let it dry only to pass out by 2200.

15 January 2011

Ice Climbing Road Trip - Day 1

Shortly before New Years, I had been climbing ice with a friend of a friend at Overland Falls in Shenandoah National Park when on our way out I ran into a friend of mine Bob Graver, coming up to the falls to climb. Somewhere during our conversation I lost focus on packing up to head out and had left my shell gloves there at the water fall. Luckily, Bob picked them up for me. Since Bob and I live some distance apart (about an hour to be exact) we figured the best and most efficient means of me picking my gloves up from him would be to go climbing together and get them then. About a week ago, I had remembered this and shot Bob and email to see if he wanted to go climbing this weekend (MLK Day weekend). Happily Bob said yes and we decided to head up to the Catskill Mountains for our trip. Last night we finally hashed out a few of the details and figured since it's [sorta] on the way, we'd stop at the Narrows, a group of waterfalls on the side of PA Route 32 outside of Kintnersville.

Today, we met up in Vienna, VA where I left my jeep in a parking garage in favor of Bob's much more fuel efficient Subaru Outback. We left Vienna around 1100 and headed for Fredrick, MD to pick up US 15 toward Harrisburg, PA. From there we picked up Interstate 78 and headed east for Hellertown near Allentown where we picked up the back roads towards Kintnersville. The waterfalls at the Narrows begin just off of the shoulder of PA 32 overlooking the Delaware River.



From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking



We pulled into the roadside parking lot, geared up, and started the two minute walk to the main falls which we found we had all to ourselves. Not bad for 14:00 on a Saturday of a holiday weekend! The ice looked solid and well developed. We strapped our crampons on and started walking towards the first set of falls. The ice felt pretty good beneath us and we couldn't here any flowing water (which is a good thing mind you).



From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




The first couple sets of falls weren't that big: maybe 6 or 7 feet tall rated at WI4. Quick scrambling over these made for fast moving and an almost careless attitude for the climb. The next couple sets of falls, however, were starting to get a little taller. The first set over 10 feet I placed a screw not for fear of falling and hitting the ground (I knew I was hitting the ground if I fell regardless of me placing a screw or not) but for fear of hitting the ground, sliding off one set of falls, hitting the ground, sliding off the second set, and, well you get the picture. That is exactly what happened after placing the second screw of the pitch on the second set of falls that was way taller than the ones I first encountered. At this point was at the 4th or 5th set of falls from the bottom of the waterfall all together. I placed a screw while standing at the base and started climbing. I had started to reach over the lip of the falls when my ice tools hit a patch of rotten ice, peeled off, and sent me flying backwards. I fell about 10 feet, hit the ground, slid about 6 feet, fell off the set of falls below where I slid, fell another 5 feet, and slid about 5 more feet before the screw caught me. At one point throughout the sliding I was wondering when I was going to stop sliding and/or falling and what part of my body was going to stop me? At the time I was sliding on my back head first unable to see where I was heading. When I came to a stop I laid on the ground for a minute waiting for the adrenaline to wear off to see what hurt. My legs could move: great. My head and neck didn't hurt: superb. My left arm, however, was howling. I stood up with my legs shaking like shit and waved to Bob. The wind had been knocked out of me so I didn't say anything to him just yet. My arm was shaking pretty good as well. Bob screamed to me, "All you alright?!" which I simply just acknowledge and started to expose my arm. I knew I had hit my arm pretty hard when I saw a bruise the size of my wallet on the backside of my forearm; a feat for someone with complexion as dark as mine is hard to accomplish. I figured it wasn't broken considering the pain wasn't excruciating nor was I screaming. I stood there for a few more minutes shaking out my arm and hand (that all of a sudden started hurting just as badly while Bob was talking to me from the bottom. Apparently when I went out of sight, slack ended up in the rope which allowed my fall/skid/fall. Thankfully, I didn't break my neck or back, nor got impaled by my tools. I picked up my tools and tried out my arm which let me know right away it was not happy by shooting pain up to my elbow from my hand after smacking it against the ice while swinging. Without hesitation I said fuck it and kept going refusing to get injured on the first pitch of the first climb of a 3-day climbing trip. I got to the top of the first pitch, set up an anchor, and belayed Bob as he cleaned the screws I had placed. Bob apologized for the slack which I wasn't really worried about. I was ok and it was a simple mistake that I make all the time. I gave Bob some screamers and a couple more quickdraws and he took off to lead the 2nd pitch. The 2nd pitch started off like the end of the first pitch: a few short leads on WI4 ice that brought you to an amphitheater of WI3-4 ice upwards of 50-60+ feet. By the time Bob cleared the smaller falls and made it to the base of the larger ice, we had run our rope out. Shocked, Bob set up an anchor on a tree of to the side and belayed me up while I cleaned for him. I was moving slow. My hand and arm hurt like hell and I was having a hard time gripping my tool. I had to choke up on my left tool so I wouldn't bang my hand into the ice as I swung which through me off balance as I pulled up to reach for the next move(s). Luckily I made to the top of the 2nd pitch without falling. The main part of the falls themselves were huge offering several different ways to top them out. I decided to rest for a bit a belay Bob while he climbed a couple of them.



From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking

From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking

From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking




After spending about 30-45 minutes climbing the falls to ourselves another party worked their way up to where we were to share into the fun. Bob climbed one more line and then we decided to start rapping back down since it was getting dark and we still had a couple more hours of driving ahead of us to make it to New Paltz, NY. We rappelled off the tree we had been using as a belay and made it to where I had belayed Bob from the bottom of the 2nd pitch when we realized that Bob had left his backpack (and his car keys) up from where we rappelled. We yelled up to the party above us who offered a trade of them bringing the backpack down if they could rap down on our rope still anchored to the tree above. Done deal! When they made it down we decided to join forces (and ropes) in order to rappel all the way down versus rappelling two separate pitches. At this point is was dark and headlamps were in order.


From Miscellaneous Climbing and Hiking



We made it back down to the road, removed our crampons, and hiked back to the car all by 18:00. We got out of our boots and hit the road for New Paltz. I passed out for most of the drive and woke up as we were getting off of Interstate 87 onto NY 299 heading into New Paltz.

We pulled into the New Paltz Hostel, secured our bunks, took showers, and relaxed a little bit. Our bunk mates seemed to be from all walks of life. The guy in the bunk below me, a genuinely friendly and nice dude, seemed to be a rambler in the true sense of the word: from his tattered jacket, dark-green probably-at-one-time blue Dickies barely hanging onto his frame, speckled glasses, and weathered face, he seemed to live out of a bunch of plastic grocery bags he carried around in a small duffel bag. Let's call him John. John, although friendly and very happy-go-lucky, could not grasp the concept of the whisper...which is very important in a hostel bunk-room after 23:00. This characteristic will come back into play shortly. Our next bunk mate whom we will refer to as Jeff was a very happy, heavyset Hispanic dude in his mid-30s who also was incredibly polite and very passive. If he felt he troubled you in any way which included walking in front of your view of a TV with nothing but static on it, he would apologize profusely even after you told him several times it was ok. Jeff also had an issue with either heights or ladders because he waffled back and forth staring at his top bunk before going to the head guy of the hostel to address his issue. Since there were no other bottom bunks available Jeff went back to the bunk-room to conquer his issue with the bed. Upon attempted to scale his bunk Jeff slipped and planted his foot rather hard into the bunk of our third bunk mate whom we will refer to as Jack. Jack, like the other two was a friendly guy with a little bit rougher personality. Now I swore like a sailor and Bob would let out an epithet here and there but as far as anyone else in the building Jack was the only other person who spoke with a coarse vocabulary like I did. Jack was sound asleep when Jeff accidentally stumbled into his bed. Jack sprung up and reacted quickly: "What the fuck is going on!?" Jeff almost had a heart attack and stumbled over the several ways he knew how to apologize as he feared for his life. Jack quickly calmed down and reassured Jeff who managed to get into his bunk with little issue. This was the last we had heard of Jeff for our brief nightly stay there for I'm sure he was mortified by even thinking of trying to get out of his bed and back in until Jack left. Enters John. Our bunk room was sealed off from the common area by two doors suspended from the ceiling on tracks that recessed back into the walls. John managed to bang both doors into walls very loudly, trip over something on the floor, dumb his duffel bag and God-knows how many plastic bags onto the ground, and proclaim, "Shit!" (again in a way that can not be considered anything like whispering) all in a matter of seconds. Again, fast to the trigger, Jack sprung out of bed and screamed, "Ok what in the FUCK is going on in this fucking place?!". John, in a not so subtle voice pierced what little silence was left with a long-winded explanation as to what happened. "Dude, just stop. Just fucking stop and keep it down so SOME of us can get some sleep" cried jack. John continued his doing his thing all the while verbally explaining to himself everything that he was doing: from looking for his tooth brush to counting his money. For about 20 minutes this went on until Jack finally got out of bed and got in John's face and asked him very forcefully to keep it down or get out. As they stood my head was 4 to 5 feet away from them at the same level. I prayed to got if they started swing I would not get hit with a stray punch or get shot or something. After all, I was already hurting from the fall earlier in the day. Finally Jack went back to sleep, and I fell asleep when John went to take a shower. I woke up a couple times throughout the night to John's tossing and turning, but I managed to get a few hours of sleep after Bob and my first day on the trip...

01 January 2011

Welcome 2011

It's a brand new year: 2011 to be exact for those of you that didn't know. A lot of people hated 2010 for some reason. Yet as I look back on last year, I can't say it was a bad one for me. If anything, a lot of good things happened to me throughout the year: For one, I strengthened my relationship with my mother which was one of the main reasons I stayed back in this area to begin with. I strengthened my relationships with my friends...especially the ones at Ashburn Vol. Fire & Rescue Dept. I got hired as a paid firefighter with MWAA and was (still am) stationed at Dulles Airport. I've met some really good and genuine people with whom I hope I will stay in contact with no matter where my life takes me. On top of that, I completed one of the first steps to becoming a Paramedic locally and became an EMT-Enhanced (as of writing this I'm still waiting on my card). Yes, 2010 wasn't too bad. 2011 I have a decent amount to look forward to. If all goes well, I'm hoping to be an EMT-Intermediate by the end of the year. If all goes really well, then by the end of June! With a job that pays a little bit better than $11.80 an hour, I'm hoping to travel a lot more. I miss the freedom and adventure of living out west. I miss Antarctica desperately. I don't see myself living in either two for a good while but I can still travel a bit from here, the DC area. For now, I'm going to miss 2010 and everything it's done for me. At the same time I'm going to welcome in 2011 and pray that it's just as fruitful as 2010 was.